If you’ve recently removed gels or acrylics, you might be wondering how to strengthen nails. I can definitely relate: After removing my beloved gel tips, I was shocked to see how weak and brittle my nails became underneath and horrified at how easily they broke.
If you're in a similar boat, don't fret. Your nails are not beyond repair. In fact, I'm pleased to report that after making some lifestyle changes and prioritising my nails' well-being, they've nearly been restored to their former glory. It just takes some time and TLC. And yes, anyone can do it.
“Just like we deep-condition and treat dry, overprocessed hair, it is crucial to take care of the nail and cuticle,” Dana Stern, MD, a board-certified dermatologist who specialises in nail health, tells Glamour. “Take a break from enhancements when your nails need a break, and keep nails shorter: Shorter nails are less prone to breakage and catching.”
As for what causes weak nails in the first place? According to Dr. Stern, there are two categories of nail damage. “The first category are the factors that are difficult to control and include genetics, aging, and certain medical conditions,” she explains, and so some of this damage is simply unavoidable. That said, the second and more common category consists of environmental factors, meaning they're easier to control and can make a significant impact on the problem once adjusted.
Looking for ways to give your nail some TLC? Read on for more on how to strengthen nails, as well as what to prevent—and what to add to your routine—to promote and maintain their fortitude.
Wear gloves when working with water
If you think of nails in the same way you would hair, it's not unlike getting a much-needed trim when your hair is damaged. Both hair and nails react poorly to similar external factors as well, like too much water, especially when the water is hot.
“Nails are extremely absorptive of water, even more so than skin!” Dr. Stern says. “When the nail absorbs water, it puts tremendous strain on the nail cells, or onychocytes, which can lead to peeling, breakage, and weakening.” She advises wearing gloves when washing dishes, working with water, or doing manual labor.
Use glass nail files
While typical cardboard emery boards tend to be the file of choice due to their affordability and how quickly they work, they're actually not the best choice when it comes to nail health.
“Emery boards have microscopic openings and splits at the tip of the nail that lead to peeling, onychoschizia, and cracks,” Dr. Stern explains. “I prefer glass or crystal nail files over cardboard emery boards because they don’t cause microscopic openings or tears and instead create a clean edge at the nail.”
Opt for non-acetone polish remover
While letting your nails breathe is essential for their well-being, how you remove your polish matters too.
“In terms of chemical exposures, polish remover is a big one: Acetone tends to be especially drying to the nail and can make brittle nails worse,” Dr. Stern tells Glamour, noting that it's best to seek out conditioning formulas that contain ingredients like soy and/or have added moisturising benefits from oils.
Avoid nail products with formaldehyde
If typical nail-strengthening products sound too good to be true, that's unfortunately because many of them are. “Many so called nail strengtheners still contain formaldehyde or formalin, ingredients that are very damaging to the nail,” Dr. Stern says. “Formaldehyde will initially harden the nail; however, with time, the nail becomes paradoxically brittle and is at risk for lifting or separating off of the nail bed.” Formaldehyde can also cause severe allergic reactions at the surrounding nail folds, she adds, prompting the skin to become extremely irritated, swollen and painful.
Translation? When shopping for nail products, opt for those formulated without formaldehyde.
Moisturise with sunflower oil
Keep your cuticles and nail moisturised, but always look for products that are formulated with scientifically proven ingredients, says Dr. Stern. “When looking for a nail and cuticle moisturiser look for products that are rich in phospholipids, which have been shown to increase nail flexibility, thus combatting brittleness,” she says. “Massage [the product] into your cuticles several times daily, and if doing a lot of handwashing, you may do after each wash.”
You'll find phospholipids in products containing sunflower oil and Brazil nut oil: According to Dr. Stern, both oils are especially rich in phospholipids.
Treat nails with glycolic acid
Finally, be sure to seek out nail treatments that contain glycolic acid. “Glycolic acid has been shown to be an ingredient that rejuvenates brittle nails,” Dr. Stern tells Glamour. “In this study, application of this alpha-hydroxy acid results in controlled keratolysis of the nail plate. Glycolic acid breaks down disulfide bonds of nail keratin, [which leads to] increased nail hydration.” What's more, glycolic acid is considered to be a humectant, which means it helps nails retain their moisture.
Glycolic acid is also useful as it essentially gives each nail a mini “peel.” “Just like we do peels for the skin to remove the superficial layers of dead cells, this strategy is also applicable to the nail,” Stern says. “By removing the damaged layers of superficial onychocytes, you can enable the absorption of the ingredients that help to hydrate and fortified the nail.” Therefore, a “peel for the nails” can be be done either in a dermatologist’s office or at home.
